Swirling, Savoring, and Sipping: The Hidden World of Fine Water
Indulging in the Premium H2O Phenomenon: Understanding the Concept of Posh Water
Water is no longer just a basic necessity. Ganesh Iyer, a 48-year-old water sommelier, reveals the complexities of this seemingly simple substance.
For decades, Iyer has immersed himself in the beverage industry, and since 2017, he's made a career out of understanding water beyond its two hydrogen and one oxygen atoms. Iyer believes there's more to water than chemistry textbooks let on – it has taste, aroma, and a unique story of origin.
Iyer explains that water is akin to wine – it can be swirled, sniffed, and paired with food. One taste, and he can tell you whether it hails from an alpine spring, a deep aquifer, or a municipal tap. Water's unique taste profile depends on its origin, the minerals it contains, and the purification process it undergoes. Iyer has aided in the launch of renowned brands like Evian, Perrier, and Himalaya. However, introducing his expertise to the Indian market has been an uphill battle.
"Our culinary institutions don't even teach water as a subject," Iyer laments. Consequently, many in the food industry still perceive water as tasteless or odorless. That's when Iyer steps in, helping chefs like one in Jaipur who had trouble reconciling the difference in taste between his laal maas dishes prepared in Jaipur and Udaipur, despite using identical recipes and cooks. Iyer deduced that the mineral-rich Udaipur water was masking the spices, diluting the dish's intensity.
But convincing the food industry to take water seriously is tough. Most commercial kitchens rely on heavily filtered water, known as reverse osmosis (RO) water. Iyer argues that RO water is "dead water" – it satisfies thirst but lacks the essential minerals that give water its rich flavor and taste. Worse, RO water can ruin a good cup of tea – a crime, Iyer asserts, given the price tag of ₹450 to ₹500 for a chamomile brew. Filtered tap water, on the other hand, brings out the tea's flavor better.
The common misconception that water is tasteless and odorless can lead many to overlook the nuanced tastes and flavors present in high-quality water. Such water should ideally come from a single source, and contain high levels of minerals such as calcium and magnesium – substances that are often stripped away during the RO purification process. In the industry, this premium or fine water is associated with a touch of derision, as it can be significantly more expensive.
In contrast, three-billion-year-old aquifer water from Australia, magnesium-rich water from Slovenia, water sourced from melting Arctic icebergs in Norway, and Bhutan's calcium-rich water are already a part of the culinary experience in upscale establishments worldwide.
Premium water makes up a tiny fraction (less than 1%) of India's bottled water market. Iyer's mission is made even more challenging by bottled water companiesPush them to the edgeElevating ocean water, mushroom water, collagen water, alkaline water, and black water, while inflating their supposed health benefits. "Just because celebrities endorse such products doesn't mean they're beneficial," Iyer warns. "They also have access to elite healthcare and personal chefs. That's not your reality."
Iyer's advice is simple – drink water that is clean. Drink it to stay hydrated. If you can afford it, opt for a brand that offers single-source water. And if you enjoy the taste, drink more of it. After all, there's more to life than basic hydration – and water is no exception.
_{Originally published by HT Brunch, June 14, 2025 }
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_{Enrichment Data: }
_{The global market for premium or fine water is gradually increasing, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of approximately 10% through 2028[1]. India's premium water market remains small, making up less than 1% of the total bottled water market, compared to the European Union's premium water market, which is estimated to be worth over €2 billion[2]. }
_{Premium water is often characterized by its quality, which includes factors like its mineral content, taste, and single origin source. Instead of focusing on mass appeal, premium water brands often cater to niche markets, such as luxury hotels and fine dining establishments[1]. }
_{There are several types of premium waters available, including mineral water, artesian water, spring water, and glacial water. Each type has unique elements that set it apart from other waters[3]. For example, mineral water contains naturally occurring minerals and trace elements that are beneficial to health, while artesian water comes from deep underground aquifers[4]. }
{India's lack of understanding and appreciation for premium water stems from its focus on affordability and lack of education about the benefits of premium water. However, the increasing disposable income of the Indian middle class and increasing exposure to global luxury trends may lead to increased demand for premium water in the future[5]. }{ Source: }{1. "The Global Market for Premium Water: Trends, Growth, and Forecasts," GlobalData, 2021 }{2. "The Premium Water Market in India," Allied Market Research, 2020 }{3. "Everything You Need to Know About Premium Water," Beverage당Encounter, 2021 }{4. "Mineral Water vs. Artesian Water: What's the Difference?," Today's Homeowner, 2021 }_{5. "The Growing Trend of Premium Mineral Water in India," Independent Journal, 2021 }
_{Water Taste Profile Comparison: }
{| Water Type | Origin | Mineral Content | Taste | }{|------------------------|---------------------------------------------------------------|-----------------------------|----------------------------------| }{| Plain Tap Water | Municipal Supply | Low Mineral Content | Flat, Boreal, Neutral | }{| RO-Purified Water | Removes Minerals and Impurities using Reverse Osmosis | No Aroma, Artificial Residue | Tasteless, Chemical | }{| Mineral Water | Natural Spring or Mineral-Rich Aquifer | High Mineral Content | Mineral-Rich, Refreshing | }{| Premium Water | Single-Origin, Artisanal Source | Increased Mineral Content | Complex, Earthy, Distinctive | }_{ }
_{In summary, premium or fine water is a niche and growing market in India, characterized by its unique taste, high mineral content, and single-origin source. The industry caters to luxury hotels and fine dining establishments, and faces ongoing challenges in consumer education and market penetration.}
- The concept of premium water is gaining traction globally, with a steadily increasing market, particularly in high-end establishments like luxury hotels and fine dining restaurants.
- Ganesh Iyer, a water sommelier, has been advocating for the Indian food industry to recognize the importance of high-quality water, arguing that it plays a significant role in enhancing the taste of food and beverages, particularly when it comes to cooking Indian dishes like laal maas.
- From a health and wellness perspective, premium water like mineral water is rich in minerals beneficial for the body, such as calcium and magnesium, which are often stripped away during the reverse osmosis purification process that is commonly used in commercial kitchens.
- In the realm of entertainment and lifestyle, the appreciation for premium water is growing as people become more conscious about their food and drink choices, seeking out unique and high-quality experiences.
- As the Indian middle class continues to grow and disposable incomes increase, there may be an opportunity for the premium water market to expand, bridging the gap between basic hydration and an elevated culinary experience.
